The Tree-Climbing Lions of Ishasha: Africa’s Most Extraordinary Secret

Most lions spend their days in one of three places: in the shade of a bush, draped across a termite mound, or stretched out on a kopje. The lions of Ishasha have other ideas. The Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park, tucked into the southernmost corner of the park near the Uganda-DR Congo border, […]

The Moment a Silverback Changed Everything — Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi

You’re told about the effort: the three-hour trek through steep, tangled, breathtakingly beautiful forest, slipping on wet roots, grabbing at vines for balance, your lungs adjusting to altitude you didn’t quite expect. You’re told about the emotional weight of the permit in your pocket, a single piece of paper that cost $700 and represents years […]

Waking Up Inside the Wild — A Night at Murchison River Lodge

I’d been warned. “You’ll hear the hippos,” our guide James said with a grin as he showed me to my tent. “Just make sure your zip is closed.” He was, I later discovered, not entirely joking. Murchison River Lodge sits on the banks of the Victoria Nile, just downstream from the thundering spectacle of Murchison […]